Mayne Island
Bennett Bay beach on Mayne Island
Georgeson Island from Campbell Point
POPULATION: 900
FERRY TERMINAL: Village Bay
TOURIST INFO: Pick up a Mayne Island Chamber of Commerce brochure
Mayne Island is so peaceful that it's hard to imagine it was once the roughest, toughest spot on the coast.
During the 1850s, when gold was discovered in British Columbia's interior, this little island, tucked between Galiano, Pender and Saturna, became a staging post for prospectors heading to the gold fields. Overflowing with transients and short on law enforcement, Mayne quickly gained a reputation as "little hell" by the more law-abiding folks on the neighbouring islands.
Although the prospectors are long gone, Mayne is still a transport hub, with frequent ferry service and good connections to the other islands. As for the carousing? Well, these days Mayne is so quiet that even Salt Spring Islanders come here for a getaway.
And it's easy to see why. Mayne's quiet roads, gentle hills, sheltered coves and seaside inns bring visitors back year after year.
The seaside hamlet of Miners Bay is still the island's commercial hub and home to such mission-critical services as a cafˇ, pub, grocery store, bookstore, several B&Bs and a sprinkling of art galleries.
There's even an old-fashioned one-cell jail, built in 1896 in case any miners got out of hand. Today it's a museum displaying artifacts from Mayne's intriguing past. Another great place to slip back in time is on the seaside deck of the Springwater Lodge. One of B.C.'s oldest hotels - it's been operating continuously since 1892 - the Springwater offers a front-row view of ferries slipping through Active Pass.
Also in Miners Bay, the Agricultural Hall, called the "Ag Hall" by islanders, hosts a farmers' market each Saturday morning in summer. Much more than a market, this is a community-wide event, with local musicians serenading shoppers as they browse for crafts and produce.
Just north of Miners Bay is the tiny stone St. Mary Magdalene Church. Built in 1898, it still hosts services every Sunday. Inside is a unique sight: a massive sandstone boulder, brought over from Saturna in 1901, is used as a baptismal font.
At the island's northern tip is Georgina Point Heritage Park, where the grassy meadow around the Active Pass Lighthouse is a favourite wedding venue. The lighthouse, built in 1885, still signals ships into the pass.
Mayne isn't all about history, though. In fact, its compact size and slow pace make it a great choice for a hiking, biking, kayaking or sailing trip. The topography is hilly, but on the whole kinder to cyclists than the other islands, with minimal traffic on the winding roads.
A popular choice for hikers is the hour-long trek up Mount Parke to the island's 255-metre (836-foot) high point. The rewards include stunning views across to Saturna, North Pender and Salt Spring islands, and even as far as the mainland. Kayaking guides and sailing charters can help visitors explore the island's sheltered coves and beaches.
A prime spot to launch a kayak is Bennett Bay, part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve. The park, on the island's eastern shore, also takes in Campbell Point, where a trail leads through the forest to a headland.
Campbell Bay, north of Bennett Bay, has the warmest swimming water. And, of course, this being a Gulf Island, galleries, studios and craft shops abound, offering everything from glassworks to natural clothing.
Ultimately, though, what people most remember about Mayne is its community spirit. As 20-year resident and innkeeper Jonathan Chilvers observes: "People like the peace and tranquillity they find on Mayne Island. And, because it's small, it has a greater sense of community than you might find in larger places."
A prime example of this spirit is the Japanese Garden at Dinner Bay Park. This one-acre garden, which honours the island's early Japanese settlers, was built entirely by volunteers. It's a lovely setting to enjoy spring blossoms or fall colours and a wonderful example of what a small island community can accomplish.
- Sue Kernaghan