Galiano Island

Gulf Islands Tourism: Montague Harbour, Galiano Island
Montague Harbour Provincial Park on Galiano

Gulf Islands Tourism: Whaler Bay, Galiano Island
Whaler Bay is home to all sorts of boats

SIZE: 57 square kilometres (22 square miles)
POPULATION: 1,100
FERRY TERMINAL: Sturdies Bay TOURIST INFO: 2590 Sturdies Bay Road; 539-2233.

If we were running a beauty contest, long, lean, beach-fringed Galiano would certainly be a contender.

This 30-kilometre-long island, with its sunset views, sandstone cliffs and forests of arbutus, cedar and Garry oak, is arguably the prettiest - and, dare we say it - most romantic of the Southern Gulf Islands.

It's also among the quietest. Despite being less than an hour by ferry from Vancouver and the first stop on the island-hopping Tsawwassen to Long Harbour run, Galiano rarely feels busy even in the peak of the summer.

Dubbed 'The Gem of the Gulf Islands,' Galiano has been an important hunting and gathering spot for the Coast Salish people for thousands of years. These days, its natural beauty and extensive trail network make it a favourite among cyclists, beachcombers and especially hikers.

Galiano's mild, dry climate allows for year-round hiking, while its compact size and great transport links mean that many of the best hikes can be tackled on day trips - although there are enough routes here to keep walkers busy for weeks.

A classic hike is along Bodega Ridge - a bluff walk through rare cliff-top ecosystems. If you're not too awed by the distant views over outlying islands, watch closely for any of the 150 bird species that thrive here. Another top choice is the trek to the island's highest point, 335-metre (1,090-foot) Mount Galiano. The panoramic views from the top take in most of the neighbouring islands.

Some more accessible spots to enjoy sea views and a picnic include tiny but scenic Bellhouse Park, near the Sturdies Bay ferry terminal, and Bluffs Park, also on the island's south end.

For sunset views, though, few spots anywhere can match Galiano's serene, west-facing Montague Harbour, a provincial marine park with camping, picnic spots and a long white shell beach. At the nearby marina, you can sip a local brew at the outdoor cafˇ, or rent a moped, boat, or kayak to explore the island.

Boats are, by the way, the only way to explore some of Galiano's loveliest marine-access-only beaches, including Dionisio Point Provincial Park at the island's northern tip.

Galiano looks pretty good underwater too. The waters surrounding the island are known in the scuba world as prime dive sites - especially in winter when the water is clearest.

Arriving at Galiano's tiny cluster of shops near the Sturdies Bay ferry terminal, you'll see a community with its priorities straight. Yes, there's gas, groceries and ATM machines, but, more critically, there's a good bookstore, a top-flight spa, a natural foods store and, in summer, a German-Indonesian take-out to provide sustenance for the ferry ride home.

All the island essentials are here too: cottages, resorts and B&Bs, bike and kayak rentals, deserted pebble beaches, even a nine-hole golf course - and, of course, lots of art. Like its island neighbours, Galiano is home to a great number of artists and craftspeople, producing everything from delicate ceramics to glasswork, clothing designs and visual art. Stop in at any of the many galleries on the island, or pick up a Galiano Art Studio Tour map to visit artists in their studios.

Galiano's many annual festivals and events include the popular Galiano Wine Festival, a casual outdoor event where you can sample B.C. and imported wines, local cheeses and other treats at Lions Park each August.

Nightlife? Absolutely. The Hummingbird Inn Pub has live music on summer weekends, and frequently during the off-season as well. In summer, they'll even run campers and boaters back to Montague Harbour in the free pub bus. Galiano also boasts several romantic fine dining options, and plenty of fun casual eateries.

And did we mention the sunsets?

- Sue Kernaghan