Gulf Islands Tourism: Li Read, realtor
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Artisan food in the Gulf Islands

Cheese, chocolate, tofu, flour, gelato and more





Gulf Islands Tourism: Artisan food products in the Gulf Islands Gulf Islands Tourism: Ruckle farm stand
Top: sprouts and mushrooms for sale at the Salt Spring Saturday market. Above: a Salt Spring farm stand and selection of apples.

Artisan food products are appearing in many places, and the Gulf Islands certainly have their share of producers, with a reputation for quality.

Island-made cheeses, chocolates, coffee, fish products, tofu, flour, gelato, pasta, spices and seasonings, jams, gourmet condiments, teas, breads and a "back 40's worth" of farm products can be picked up here.

All of the islands' farmers' markets offer a chance to buy some home-grown, home-baked or prepared-on-the-spot delicacies. In the last few years, the field of artisan breads and exquisite baked treats has really blossomed.

Many Gulf Islands restaurateurs pride themselves on using locally grown foods whenever possible, fostering a true "farm-to-plate" culture. They will often note which local products are used in specific menu items, including the name of the farm, when applicable.

Fish and seafood is also plentiful on the islands, of course. Visitors can stroll down to the docks to see if a daily catch is available — most likely in the form of live crab — or again, enjoy fruits of the sea prepared by local chefs.

Salt Spring mussels, grown in aquaculture operations, are developing quite the reputation, and can often be found on restaurant menus throughout the region.

Salt Spring now even boasts an oyster bar, where the best of the region can be savoured.

A number of island-based companies offer packaged seafood products available at the grocery stores, specialty stores and even the markets, in some cases.

Salt Spring lamb has long been famous and presented in fancy eateries near and far, but many other island products are now being "exported" and find themselves in high demand in off-island restaurants and stores, and through internet sales.

Local grocery stores are also supportive of island-grown-and-created products, so they're always easy to find. A number of food producers are Salt Spring Studio Tour participants, including Sacred Mountain Lavender, which also holds a festival each summer, showcasing all things lavender.

The Chamber of Commerce even promotes a "Simply Salt Spring" label for prepared foods and other items such as made-on-island soaps, scintillating body-pleasing products and "mass-produced" crafts — of which there are many to celebrate.

Beer has been made on Salt Spring for several years by Gulf Islands Brewing Ltd., makers of Salt Spring Island Ales. The small cottage brewery operates out of a purpose-built, 2,500-square-foot barn at the foot of Mount Bruce in the Fulford valley and the site of the brewery's natural spring.

Brewmaster Murray Hunter creates some of the most unique and delicious unfiltered and unpasteurized brews around with a local focus that works with island farmers to source and grow seasonal ingredients. From farm to cup, they aspire to create beers that embody the islands' flavour and character. The brewery is a two-time national gold medalist at the Canadian Brewing Awards.

The ales are widely available on Salt Spring and southern Vancouver Island at restaurants, pubs and in liquor stores.

Another new product on three islands is wines, made from locally-grown grapes. Vineyards and wineries on Salt Spring, Pender and Saturna are rapidly gaining renown and their tasting rooms and shops make great places to visit. See separate story.

Meanwhile, farming has been an island tradition since the first pioneers cleared land on Salt Spring in 1859. Early summer brings in sweet raspberries and strawberries, while late summer's bounty can be found at roadside stands all across the island, with baskets of pears, bundles of garlic or bunches of tender new beets and carrots available with payment at the "honour box." Fresh eggs are available year round, and net bags of local walnuts appear in late fall.

People who don't have time to tour the roadways can find everything they desire at the Saturday markets that are held on many islands.

As a response to the challenges of climate change, residents of the Gulf Islands are aiming to dramatically increase local food production. Farming advocates have long embraced island growing, including internationally in-demand speaker Michael Ableman, who can be seen with his family members selling Foxglove Farm produce at the Salt Spring Saturday market or at their Mount Maxwell farm that often hosts special educational events.

Dan Jason, a founder of Canada's Seed Sanctuary and his own Salt Spring Seeds company, is another modern pioneer who unites ideals with action.

Perhaps most famously, Salt Spring was B.C.'s foremost location for apple production until popularity shifted to the Okanagan region in the late 19th century. Today, local growers are reviving the islands' farming heritage by recovering apple breeds in organic orchards. Over 100 breeds and many host locations are celebrated at the Salt Spring Apple Festival, held annually during the first weekend in October.

Evidence of the islands' deep farming roots can also be seen at popular fall fair events held annually on Mayne, Pender and Salt Spring.

Salt Spring also hosts events such as an annual Ruckle Farm Day with a horse ploughing match, old-time skills demonstrations and 4-H animal displays each spring.

— Elizabeth Nolan
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